The canal’s horse chestnuts were planted for the barge horses; they now shade the quays for the picnic economy that replaced them. The east quay gets morning shade, the west gets afternoon — the iron footbridges at each lock let you switch sides in thirty seconds, which is the whole game.
These picks run the open stretch, the swing-bridge middle, and the southern third where the canal disappears under the Boulevard Richard-Lenoir — a planted median riding on top of the vaulted water.